Updated April 29, 2025
Quick Overview: What You’re Getting Into
Les Deux Alpes is big. Not “just take the gondola and lap the same run all day” big—actually spread-out, with long vertical, glacier riding up top, and some surprisingly gnarly terrain if you know where to look.
It’s also a bit of a weird layout—more on that below—but it delivers where it counts: snow, variety, and some surprisingly good lift infrastructure now that the new Jandri Express is in.
We recently rode there again for a week in mid-March. Conditions were mixed: a couple powder days up high, spring slush down low, and everything in between. Here’s the breakdown.
New Jandri Gondola: About Time
This was long overdue. The old Jandri Express was basically a museum piece. The new Jandri Express 3S is pretty epic. It’s fast, smooth, and eats crowds for breakfast (shifting 3000 people per hour).
You go from town all the way up to 3,200m in a single shot now – well, with a brief stop at 2600m. Massive time-saver.
Bonus: you stay warm and dry, and it actually feels like modern infrastructure. If you ever stood in the freezing queue for the old one, this alone makes the trip better.
Terrain: Great (if you know where to go)
➤ Beginners & Early Intermediates
Les Deux Alpes is oddly shaped—it’s mostly inverted, meaning the gentler terrain is up high, and things get steeper as you head down into the town. So for nervous riders, you’re better off staying up top. The runs from the glacier back to the mid-station (around Toura) are long, wide, and mellow.
Heads Up: some blue runs down low are way more technical than advertised. If you’re early in your progression, don’t blindly follow blues all the way to the base—some of them turn into mogul fields, especially in the afternoon.
➤ Intermediates
This is your playground. Long reds, cruisy terrain, and room to open it up. The glacier is surprisingly fun even without fresh snow, and you can get in some serious vertical. The Signal area is underrated—less busy, good visibility, and some fun, flowy pitches.
➤ Advanced Riders
This is where things get more interesting. The “freeride zone” below La Fée is sketchy in a good way—steep, often wind-loaded, and unpisted. Officially marked but not groomed, so it gives off a mini backcountry feel without going full send.
Also worth noting: the La Grave link exists… sort of. It’s not officially connected via lifts, and the return is a mission, but if conditions are right and you have avy gear (and ideally a guide), that terrain is a different world.
Snow Conditions
It was classic March. Up top—especially above 2,800m—it was still winter. Cold, chalky snow, good coverage, and even a couple of powder days that held really well on the glacier. Down low, it was full spring mode: sticky slush after lunch, icy in the morning. That’s the trade-off with a resort like this—you get altitude, but also end up riding through multiple seasons in one run.
Pro tip: lap up high until about 1 PM, then bail or hit après. My idea of a perfect spring session!
Freestyle: Park Rats Welcome
The park scene is alive and well. The Toura park is big, well-maintained, and has legit features—from rollers and small jumps to full-size booters and rails. There’s progression space, but if you’re brand new to park, it might feel a bit intimidating.
They also had a solid boardercross course and a few random side hit-style zones around the mid-mountain areas. Honestly, I’m more of a freerider these days (curse these knees), but even I ended up lapping the park a few times because it’s so accessible.
Lifts & Crowds
Now that the Jandri lift has been updated, the system feels a lot more modern. Not perfect—there are still a few older chairs that feel like holdovers—but overall, it moves well.
That said, it’s a popular resort, and March is still busy. You’ll wait at the base on weekends, and at certain pinch points (like Bellecombes), lines can build. But it’s manageable, and once you’re out of the main funnel, it spreads out quickly.
Food on the Mountain: Pricey but Expected
Standard alpine pricing. €20 gets you a burger and a drink, maybe. Not awful, but don’t expect value. I’d recommend grabbing food at La Troika or Diable au Coeur if you’re up high—they’re a little better quality. If you’re on a budget, pack snacks and eat at the apartment.
In the evenings, there are dozens of options. If you like cheese, you’re all set. If not, head to Smithy’s Tavern for some unexpected Mexican cuisine – the sizzling fajitas were spot on.
For the health-conscious rider, check out Yonder cafe. Yes, I felt like a typical (albeit aged) wannabe influencer, but their açai bowls, matcha latte and avocado toast were excellent.
The Town: Functional with a Hint of Chaos
Les Deux Alpes feels a bit thrown together—sort of like a patchwork of different decades and architectural styles—but it works. There’s a proper supermarket, tons of rental shops, and bars everywhere. It’s not classy like some Swiss resorts, but there’s energy, especially in March when uni kids and Euro spring breakers roll through.
If you’re looking for nightlife, it exists. If you’re looking to sleep before 11 p.m. in a thin-walled apartment above a pub… good luck.
Accommodations: You Get What You Pay For
We stayed in a self-catered apartment, which is the norm here. You can get decent value, but the town stretches long, so check your location—being near the Jandri base is a huge plus now that it actually works well. There are also a few decent hotels, but nothing ultra-lux.
Pro Tip: A free shuttle bus covers the whole resort. If you find affordable options on the outskirts, it’s doable (though personally, I’d pay a slight premium to be central).
Getting There: Plan Ahead
Les Deux Alpes isn’t hard to reach, but it does take a bit of coordination. The closest major airport is Grenoble (1.5–2 hours), followed by Lyon and Geneva. Grenoble has fewer flights, but it’s the fastest option if the timing works.
From the airport, you’re either renting a car or catching a transfer shuttle. We used Ben’s Bus, and it was fine—standard cramped van vibes but it got us there.
The drive up the mountain is long and winding, especially if you’re arriving late or in snow. No train option gets you close—you’re on wheels the whole way.
Car Rentals
If you’re renting a car, make sure it’s winter-ready, and don’t leave chains to chance. When renting from Geneva airpot, check whether you’re booking from the Swiss or French side. They’re different!
Pro Tip: The quickest route from the airport includes Swiss motorways, which require a pre-paid “vignette”. If you rent from the French side you’ll need to buy one for an additional €40, or risk a massive fine!
Final Thoughts: Worth It?
Heck yeah, it’s worth it!
Especially now that the Jandri lift doesn’t suck.
Les Deux Alpes has always been a bit chaotic but fun, and the new infrastructure brings it closer to what a modern resort should feel like. You get glacier riding, real vertical, park laps, freeride terrain, and a solid après scene.
Is it the most polished resort in Europe? No.
Is it fun as hell, with real terrain variety and good vibes? Definitely.
Just know what you’re signing up for, and you’ll have a great time.
Great write up. We were choosing between L2A and Tignes next year. Think we’ll go for L2A for something a little different. Thanks again!