Skiing and Snowboarding at Hakkoda Ski Area - Japan
We line up in the comfort and shelter of the main lodge at Hakkoda Ski Area. The line snakes up the stairs towards the ropeway. We reach the front of the line, present our tiny paper tickets to be clipped before loading onto the ropeway. It’s a busy day that day and we pack onto the carriage, fairly certain that we have reached its max capacity of 101. Once we get to the top, we unload and head to the start of the run, at which point I realise that we are the only people there. Where did the other 94 people on the ropeway go?
Off piste. Back country. That’s where they went.
Hakkoda Ski Area is located in the Aomori prefecture - the northernmost part of Japan’s main island. It is also referred to as the Tohoku region which is made up of six prefectures - Aomori, Iwate, Akita, Miyagi, Yamagata and Fukushima. It has the most traditional feel out of any ski resort that I have been to in Japan so far. I liken it to an old school New Zealand club field, where you’ve found out about it from someone who’s been there and it is assumed that you know what to do when you get there.
Rustic, authentic, raw.
I was extremely grateful to have a guide and interpreter with me because honestly, the only thing I would have figured out by myself was where the toilet was. I hunted for a piste map in the main building, but all I could find was a brochure on summer activities with a very small section on skiing.
When I mentioned on Instagram that I was headed to Hokkoda, a follower strongly suggested having a guide and that going off trail was risky AF…her actual words. Our guide, who also happened to be the Director of Hotel Azumashiya where we spent the previous night, had a photocopy of the piste map in a folder. I pointed to the off piste terrain and asked if I could snowboard there. He answered with a solid no. There are rivers under the snow so unless you know where you are going, you could find yourself in a bit of a pickle.
At this point, I’m feeling pretty bloody excited. The suggestion of advanced terrain with the comfort of having a local to guide us has got me pumped!
It’s a baptism of fire as we hit the first run. It’s our groups first day of the trip on the slopes - it’s windy and visibility is low. The start of the run is ungroomed and covered in a good amount of fresh powder. The visibility prevents us from seeing contours in the snow and I hear all sorts of hilarious sounds coming from our group as we encounter unforeseen bumps and gullies. No warm up lap here, straight into it!
The trail isn’t very obvious and our guide points out the orange markers which indicate where the run is. We all make a mental note to keep them in our sight at all times. After what feels like sidecountry riding, we hit a groomed run which later fans out into several other runs leading back to the main building. We do this run a few more times before heading down to the base for some lunch at the lodge. As expected, the Japanese mountain food is delicious with a range of curries and noodles on offer. Bellies are full and lazy lunch legs kick in. Our group decides to catch the two seater chairlift, which goes about a third up the ski area, instead of the Ropeway for some easy afternoon runs.
Hakkoda Ski Area Mountain Stats
Location: Hakkoda Ski Area is located in the Aomori Prefecture, which is the top of Honshu, Japan’s Main Island.
Max elevation: 1324m
Min elevation: 658m
Vertical: 666m
Steepest slope: 30 degrees
Lifts: 1 x ropeway and 1 double chair
Hakkoda Ski Area Terrain
If you are a true powder hound who likes technical terrain, back/sidecountry skiing and off piste riding, then you are going to LOVE Hakkoda. Hakkoda is known for plenteous snowfall and despite being one of the worst seasons on record when I was there, I was finding fresh tracks on every run.
80% of the ski area is considered intermediate/advanced terrain so if you are a beginner or like to ski groomed runs only, then Hokkoda is not the place for you. There are tree wells to avoid and as I mentioned before, the trails are not very well marked or roped off.
Unfortunately, our time there was short so we were unable to explore what the rest of the mountain had to offer and where those 94 other people went!
Lift Tickets
Tickets for the Ropeway are sold either as a single pass or a 5 ride pass which will set you back 5,050 yen ($49US). The chairlifts are operated by a different company so you will need a different ticket. We had no idea of this and rode the chair thinking that it was included with our Ropeway ticket. Whoops!
Facilities
Hakkoda doesn’t have resort style facilities, but it does have all the basics. I would recommend bringing your own ski/snowboard gear, however, there is a rental shop which I believe has a basic range of gear.
There isn’t an ATM at Hakkoda so it’s a good idea to have cash with you. Lift tickets can be purchased with a card. In true Japanese style, you will find vending machines with an assortment of beverages at various locations and a great selection of mountain food at Sansou Lodge which is at the base of the lifts.
I wouldn’t consider this resort kid friendly as there isn’t a learners area, daycare or play area. Apparently, there is a ski school, but is mainly used by the locals.
Hakkoda Ski Area Tips
Whilst the terrain is not particularly steep, the ever changing conditions can make it challenging. Because of this, Hakkoda is more suited to strong experienced skiers and snowboarders who have experience skiing in white outs, high winds, with tree wells and deep powder.
If it is your first time there, get a guide to show you the terrain or, make sure you stay on piste and follow the orange markers. I’ve heard that Hakkoda experiences quick weather changes and blizzards thanks to unforgiving Siberian storms and people can easily become lost. On the flipside, these storms bring the abundance of snow that Hakkoda is known for, so no complaints there!
Backcountry and off piste riding is very popular here but at your own risk. Make sure you have backcountry training, gear and a backpack with essentials. Hire a guide, I repeat hire a guide.
If you want a break from the more challenging runs, there are lots of fun runs to be had off the double chair. It doesn’t get you all the way to the top of the mountain, but there was never a queue when we were there and we were able to get more riding time in. The ropeway loads every 20 minutes, so you may find you lose a bit of time waiting in the line.
Getting to Hakkoda
I found getting to Hakkoda to be very easy as most of my snowboarding trips to Japan have had long transit times with multiple stopovers.
You can either fly into Aomori or catch the train. It’s worth looking at both as the cost and times depending on where you come from can be a much of a muchness.
Aomori has an international airport with direct flights from Haneda Tokyo, Seoul and Sapporo. From there, it’s a 40 minute car ride to Hakkoda.
The bullet train from Shinkansen Hayate (Tokyo) to the Shin-Aomori station takes 3.5 hours. The bus from here takes 60 - 90 minutes to get to Hakkoda.
Check with your accommodation, as some places will provide a shuttle bus from the airport or train station.
Where to Stay
There are two on resort options at the base of the Hakkoda Ropeway and a selection of hotels around the area. Most will provide a free shuttle to the ski resort and include breakfast and dinner.
Our group stayed at two hotels:
Hotel Azumashiya - 35 minutes drive from Hakkoda. A small, boutique feel with warm, friendly, attentive hospitality. The rooms are beautifully traditional with a private bathroom and there is an onsen in the hotel. There is a complimentary shuttle to and from Aomori airport or station as well as to Hakkoda ski area.
Sukayu Onsen - located 5 minutes drive from Hakkoda. It is known for its 1000 person hot spring. Yep, apparently, you can fit 1000 people in there (there are photos to prove it) and to top it off, it is a mixed onsen. My traditional Japanese room didn’t come with a shower or bath so I was relieved to find out that there are also single sex onsens at the hotel. If you haven’t been to an onsen before, be sure to check out my onsen etiquette guide as it can be a bit daunting the first time. Sukayu Onsen is a big hotel and you can easily get lost wandering around, exploring all the interesting alcoves and rooms throughout. There are shared cooking facilities as well as dining rooms, laundromat, game room, retail shop and massage services.
At most hotels, you’ll be provided with a Kimono in your room which you can literally wear anywhere. To the onsen, to dinner, to breakfast…don’t be shy. There are also different sizes available, so feel free to grab a different size (there is usually a selection in the hallways) if the one in your room is not the right size. A note on wearing a Kimono - when you wrap it, it is right first then left over top. Wearing it the wrong way has a meaning related to death. Despite being told this, I still somehow managed to get it wrong and turned up to dinner with my kimono the wrong way! <insert forehead slap here>.
If you’re looking for an apres ski scene, you’re not going to find it in the Tohoku region. You’re better off going to Niseko which has a fantastic nightlife, but a less traditional experience as it caters for the western tourist. Apres ski is not a thing in Japanese culture, but us Aussies love it, so we got some takeaways from the shop and vending machines and hung out in one of our rooms.
The Final Word On Hakkoda
I loved Hakkoda Ski Area but with only a short time, I didn’t get to explore the mountain as much as I wanted to. I can see the potential and if you are into deep powder, off piste type terrain, big tree skiing and ok with challenging conditions, then I think you will like it too. There is lots of terrain to explore and zero crowds aside from the Ropeway. For now. In saying that, it is not for everyone. I know a lot of people who would find those sort of riding conditions less than pleasant.
Check out the vid below on all the ski areas I visited on this trip.
I’m keen as beans to get back there with a guide to explore more of the terrain.
Have you been to Hakkoda? I’d love to hear about your experience!
Cheers
Jen
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Jen spends most of her time following Mick around the mountain, often unintentionally off jumps and cliff drops. Currently on a mission to prove that you’re never too old to try freestyle. Aside from snowboarding, a little obsessed about tattoos, CrossFit, saving animals, learning to play the guitar and clean eating. Web designer and digital marketing nerd.
