It was my first day on the job in Glencoe Valley, Scotland. I was working in the Kingshouse Hotel, just across from the Glencoe Ski Centre.
A woman, full of tears in her eyes, comes to me, saying her husband got lost in the mountains. He attempted the infamous Aonach Eagach ridge on his own. In winter. He got lost and was rescued by a group of rangers completing their training in the mountains. That was my welcome to Scotland.
Being in Scotland is like dating, and Scotland is playing hard to get. You’ve heard great things, seen well-crafted profile pictures, and you decided to meet in real life. The first few dates feel a bit rocky, Scotland will literally and figuratively throw snow in your face. But if you can endure the harsh beginning – the rewards will knock you off your feet.
If you’re used to skiing in Chamonix or the Rockies, Scotland might seem slightly underwhelming at first look. However, don’t write it off just yet.
I’ve been to the Canadian Rockies as well as the Austrian Alps in winter. And let me tell you – sometimes it is not about the size. While Scottish mountains are relatively smaller and more rounded, they make up for it in the wild spirit and raw adventure.
There are 5 skiing centres in Scotland, three of which are located in the Cairngorms National Park and two in the Glencoe area. And while the Cairngorms have the largest and the highest slope, I am unapologetically biased towards Glencoe. If you catch the right weather window. And the winds are not too high. And the snow hasn’t turned into ice yet. And… you’re just really damn lucky.
When I worked in Glencoe Valley, one of my responsibilities was to check the weather forecast and skiing conditions every morning. The entire winter season had around two weeks’ worth of good conditions. More often than not, it was shut because of the high winds. People who work there check the weather forecast more regularly than their phones.
Now, let’s assume you have good fortune on your side. It’s the perfect day, perfect snow, you’re at the top of the mountain with the best view in all of Scotland. You’re in the middle of nowhere with at least an hour’s drive to the nearest shop on each side. And it’s only a gas stop anyway.
Glencoe covered under the snow blanket with clear blue skies is to this day one of my best memories. Did I get almost blown off in the wind later that day? Sure. But that’s part of the fun.
Glencoe Ski Terrain
Most of the slopes are easy to intermediate, however, there are a couple of pistes for those who are ready to hone their skills to the next level. Including the steepest black run in the UK, the ‘Flypaper’ with an angle of at least 40 degrees.
About an hour’s drive further west from Glencoe, you will arrive in Fort William. It is home to the UK’s highest mountain – Ben Nevis. Going up this mountain via the CMD arete route is one of the best hikes this country has to offer. When you reach Carn Mor Dearg, on the left you see Ben Nevis ski centre and on your right the peak of Ben Nevis.
The north face of Ben Nevis is the only alpine-feel-like place in the entire Scotland. Which begs the question, did someone misread the maps when building Ben Nevis ski centre and miss it by one mountain?
Alternatives?
Now, if the weather has turned and the slopes are not open, fear not – Ben Nevis Distillery is right next to the ski centre. Whether it’ll be slopes or shots that day is a fine line when in Scotland.
Other Ski Areas
The other 3 ski resorts in Scotland are in Cairngorms National Park. Glenshee Ski Centre is the largest one, CairnGorm Mountain has the highest slope, and Lecht Ski Centre is best suited for complete beginners, otherwise, other options are much better.
In general, the weather in the Cairngorms is slightly more predictable than in the West Highlands, and the snow blanket tends to stay longer too. The ski resorts are also slightly better connected to civilisation and comforts one might expect on a holiday.
That said, Scotland requires a certain type of person. If you are the one to book an all-inclusive holiday at a beach resort over a camping holiday – Scotland will destroy you. You need to be a little rough around the edges and ready to change your plans anytime.
Tis The Season
While the official skiing season is from December, only go at this time if you want to be experienced in getting soaking wet and sitting in the dark. Don’t even think about waking up to a beautiful snowy morning. It does not happen in December. January and February are your best options.
As a general rule, when in Scotland, there’s not much point in checking the weather forecast. It not only can change a few times in a day, but it will. One minute you could be in a hailstorm with no visibility, and the other, you could be taking your perfect Instagram pictures. Even if you leave your hotel room with blue skies, please do take an extra pair of socks and a waterproof jacket. You can thank me later.
So… Is Scotland Worth It?
Scotland is raw, wild and genuine. The same goes for Scottish people and drinks. If you’re up for an adventure that will definitely end up in your memoir, this is the place to be.
You will get a lesson in letting go when things go wrong, because they will. And if you’re one of the lucky ones, you will see the most beautiful landscapes of your life.
See you there?
